Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2014

St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of Shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. It is unusual among high quality Australian red wines as it does not rely on any new oak. Released for the first time by Penfolds in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957), it gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood. Proudly, a wine style that hasn’t succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce. St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters as it ages. It is matured in old, large oak vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. Although a small proportion of cabernet is sometimes used to improve structure, the focal point for St Henri remains shiraz.

Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, Southern Fleurieu, Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. 12 months in 50+ year old large oak vats. A polished and effortless blueberry, satsuma plum and black olive integrity define a St Henri of enduring, fine-grained tannin structure, undeviating line and grand persistence. Nuances of pepper offer dimension and intrigue. There is an evenness and an effortless focus that set this vintage apart among the great St Henris, approachable from the outset and yet possessing surprising endurance. Drink 2019-2034. 97 points, tysonstelzer.com